Eyelet Sock Pattern - Knitting

It's finally done! This sock pattern is a companion pattern for our Confetti Sheep sock sets! It's a simple pattern, however, if you are brand new to sock knitting, it might be a bit confusing, but I don't think it would be impossible to work through.

 

Most socks are knit with size 1 or 2 needles. I personally prefer to use a size 3 because it makes them quicker to knit. 

Okay, enough blathering - I'm not going to bore you. If you want tips and tricks, scroll to the bottom of the pattern. If not, get out your yarn and needles and have some fun!

 

Simple Eyelet Socks by Knittin’ Kitten Fiber

Supplies Needed:

Size 4 needle (this is for cast on only, so a single DPN or circular needle will work)

Size 3 DPNs or Circular (or if you’re like me, both)

Or whatever size you need that will achieve the required gauge

Tapestry Needle (for seamless cast off and weaving in ends)

Yarn:

Confetti Sheep Sock Set from Knittin’ Kitten Fiber

Yardage:

Solid Color 1 - 34 - 120 yards (for cuff and toe)

Main Color 2 -  195 - 420 yards

Gauge:

2x2 Rib - 14sts and 24 rows = 2 inches

Pattern - 16sts and 22 rows = 2 inches

Stockinette - 15sts and 22 rows = 2 inches

Measurements (these are all taken BEFORE any blocking or stretching!):

For the 56 stitch cast on size:

• Cuff and leg circumference: 7 1/4 inches
• Foot circumference: 7 3/4 inches

For the 64 stitch cast on size:

• Cuff and leg circumference: 8 1/4 inches
• Foot circumference: 8 3/4 inches

For the 72 stitch cast on size:

• Cuff and leg circumference: 9 1/4 inches
• Foot circumference: 9 3/4 inches

If you don’t know which size to choose, scroll to the “Tips and Tricks” section for guidance.

Stitch Guide:

K - Knit

P- Purl

SKP - Slip, Knit, Pull Slipped Stitch Over Knit Stitch (this is a decrease)

YO - Yarn Over

K2tog - Knit 2 stitches together (this is a decrease)

P2tog - Purl 2 stitches together (this is a decrease)

SSK - Slip 2 stitches onto right needle, use left needle to knit them together (this is a decrease)

Sl1 pwise - Slip one stitch purl wise

M1R - use the left needle to pick up the strand between the last stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from back to front. Leave the strand on the left needle and use the right needle to knit as you normally would

Eyelet Pattern:

Round 1: (P3, K2, YO, SKP, K1) repeat across all stitches

Round 2: K across all stitches

Round 3: (P3, K3, YO, SKP) repeat across all stitches

Round 4 : K across all stitches

Round 5: (P3, K1, K2tog, YO, K2) repeat across all stitches

Round 6: K across all stitches

Round 7: (P3, K2tog, YO, K3) repeat across all stitches

Round 8: K across all stitches

Cuff:

With the larger needle and color 2, using the long-tail cast on method, cast on 56 (26, 72) stitches

Slips stitches on to the smaller needle. If using DPNs, split evenly across 3 needles.

Join to work in the round

*K2, P2* - repeat every round for at least 12 rounds.

If you like a longer cuff, feel free to do additional rounds. Just make sure that you have enough yarn! See the tips section at the bottom of the pattern for what I’ve tested.

Leg:

Join Color 2 (main color) and knit one round

Then work the pattern for as many repeats as you want! Just make sure to end on an eyelet pattern round 7, we will use eyelet pattern round 8 to split the stitches for the heel.

I like to do at least 6 repeats, so 47 rows total, before splitting for the heel. This sock pattern is meant to sit right below your calf muscle. If you go much shorter than that, it may slide a bit due to the number of stitches that were cast on. You also want to ensure that you have enough yarn! See the tips sections for more info.

From this point forward, only the INSTEP stitches will be knit in the eyelet pattern - all other stitches will be stockinette.

Heel Flap Set Up Round (The heel flap and heel turn will be worked FLAT - not in the round):

Making sure to end on a pattern round 8 (knit only round):

K across  19(27,35)  these will be the instep stitches - you will not need to work them for this next part

Across the remaining 37 stitches:

Row 1: Sl1 pwise, K2tog, *Sl1 pwise, K1* repeat between the * until all stitches worked

We have to decrease one stitch at this point to ensure that the pattern for the heel flap works correctly (it has to be an even number of stitches)

Heel Flap:

Now work the following pattern for 33 rows

Row 1 (Wrong Side): Sl1 pwise, K across remaining stitches

Row 2 (Right Side): *Sl1 pwise, K1* repeat across all stitches (you should end on a K1)

Heel Turn:

Row 1 (Wrong Side): Sl1 pwise, P21, P2tog, P1, Turn

Row 2 (Right Side): Sl1 pwise, K9, SSK, K1, Turn

Row 3 (WS): Sl1 pwise, P until 1 before gap, P2tog, P1, Turn

Row 4 (RS): Sl1 pwise, K until 1 before gap, SSK, K1, Turn

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all stitches have been worked out

Gusset:

At this point, I will use a set of DPNs because it’s easier to pick stitches up, but you do you!

With a DPN, Pick up and knit 19 stitches along the edge of the heel flap

PLEASE NOTE, you will have to pick up one stitch next to your instep that is NOT part of the heel flap - this ensures that you don’t end up with a little hole where the gusset meets the instep stitches

With a new DPN, Knit pattern round 1

With a new DPN, Pick up and knit 19 stitches along the edge of the heel flap

Now you are back at the bottom of the heel. At this point, you can either swap back to your circular needle (assuming you changed to dpns) or just keep going with dpns, whatever makes you happy!

Gusset Decrease Set Up Round:

Round 1: K all stitches until you get to instep stitches, then work those in eyelet pattern round 2, then knit remaining stitches.

PLEASE NOTE: You will want to make sure to knit through the back of the loop on all of the stitches you picked up - this can be a bit rough but it will ensure that you don’t end up with a series of little holes where each stitch sits.

Gusset Decrease Rounds:

Round 1: K to 3 stitches before instep - K2tog, K1

               Eyelet Pattern Round 3 on INSTEP stitches

                K1, SSK, K until end of round

Round 2: K all heel and gusset stitches and work Eyelet Pattern 4 on INSTEP stitches

Repeat rounds 1 and 2 (making sure to follow the eyelet pattern for the instep stitches) until you have 55(63, 71) stitches.

Foot:

Set Up Round: Since we decreased 1 stitch while working on our heel, we need to add this stitch back. So at some point on the bottom of the foot, you will need to increase a stitch. I like to M1R. It doesn’t matter where you do this, as long as it is on the bottom of the foot and NOT the instep. You should now have the same number of stitches that you started with 56(64,72).

Now all you have to do is:

Stockinette for all stitches on the bottom of the foot (these were your heel and gusset stitches) and work the eyelet pattern rows across your instep.

You will do this for about 32 rounds, or until your sock measures 6.5 inches from the back of the heel, to your needles. The toe takes up about 2.5 inches, so you want to end your foot at about that point. Depending on how long your feet are, you may need to do a few additional rows. See tips for more info!

The great thing about this eyelet pattern is that you can end it on any row and it will look fine!

From this point forward, you will do stockinette stitch only

Toe:

At this point, I find that is much easier to keep track of things with DPNs rather than a circular needle, but as always, you do what is easiest for you.

Since our instep has fewer stitches than our foot, we will need to move a few stitches around to ensure that the top of our toe has the same number of stitches as the bottom of it.

With color 1 and a dpn, you will want to knit until 3 stitches before the instep, grab a new den and K those 3 stitches, then K across the instep stitches. Before grabbing a new DPN, knit 2 more stitches. Then grab your new dpn, and knit the remaining stitches.

You should have the same number of stitches on your instep (or top of the toe) needle, as you do for the bottom of the toe stitches when combined (for example, if you are doing the 64 cast on size, this means you will have 32 stitches on the top needle and 16 stitches on both of the bottom needles)

Now work in stockinette stitch for an additional 5 rounds

Toe Decreases:

Round 1:

Needle 1: K until last 3 stitches on needle, K2tog, K1

Needle 2: K1, SSK, K until last 3 on needle, K2tog, K1

Needle 3: K1, SSK, K remaining stitches

Round 2: K all stitches

Repeat these 2 rounds 6 times (so 12 rounds total)

Cast off:

For a seamless cast off, we are going to cut our yarn with at least a 12 inch tail. This will ensure we have enough for our cast off and to weave in the end.

Kitchener stitch:

Set-Up Step 1: Purlwise on front needle, leave on

Set-Up Step 2: Knitwise on back needle, leave on

Step 1: Knitwise on front needle, drop off

Purlwise on front needle, leave on

Step 2: Purlwise on back needle, drop off

Knitwise on back needle, leave on

Repeat steps 1 and 2 until all stitches have been worked. Then weave in your ends and voila! You have the most comfortable sock you can imagine!

Tips and Tricks:

Cast On

• Why are we using a bigger needle to cast on: Because the long-tail cast on method can be a bit inelastic, it may be necessary to use a needle that is one or two sizes bigger than your actual working needle to cast on. This is totally up to you. I personally like to go one size bigger, do my cast on, then slip them all onto the needles that I will actually be working with. I do tend to knit really tightly though, so this may take some experimenting.
• What size should I make: This can be a bit tricky. I wear a women’s size 9 to 9.5 shoe, so I would go with the 64 stitch cast on. I knit very tightly though - so this may be different for you. I would suggest measuring your foot at three points:
• Foot circumference - this is down by where your toes meet your foot - for me, this measures approximately 9.25 inches
• Cuff circumference - this sock is meant to sit just below your calf muscle, so measure around your leg at this point. For me, this is approximately 10 inches
• Foot length - From the back of your heel to the tip of your longest toe - for me this is approximately 9.5 inches.

   Finding these measurements can help you decide how many stitches you need to cast on. If none of the provided stitch counts are close enough in size, I would suggest moving up or down a needle size. If it’s really close, you can go with a smaller size and block them when they’re done to stretch them out a bit.

I’ve found that the sock will stretch about 1.5 to 2 inches once blocked or worn. This is quite a stretchy pattern! The cast on that uses 72 stitches fits my husband, who wears a men’s 12.

Cuff:

• This part is super simple - you can make the cuff as long as you want. I have tried 12 rows and 15 rows and had enough yarn left over that I could have easily gone much longer. You may want to if you like to fold your socks over, or if you have a larger leg circumference.

Leg:

• Much like the cuff, this is super simple. You can make the leg as long as you want, just note that if you make it much shorter than what the pattern says, it might slide down because our legs taper a bit toward the ankle, and if you go much higher, it may be a bit too tight around your calf muscle.

Heel:

• Make sure that you decrease 1 stitch from the heel flap or the pattern will not work properly - you need an even number of stitches.

Gusset:

• If you only pick up the selvage stitches, you will be left with a bit of a hole where the instep and gusset stitches meet - this is why I like to add in an additional stitch to each side. To do this, you will want to pick up a could of bars that connect one stitch to the next, right where the instep and heel meets.
• After picking up your stitches, on your very next round, you should knit all picked up stitches through the back loop. This is because you will end up with tiny holes along the picked up stitched if you do not.

Foot:

• Since we decreased a stitch while working up the heel, we will want to add that stitch back in with a M1R increase. It really doesn’t matter where you do this, as long as it is on the BOTTOM of the foot, otherwise it will throw off the instep pattern.
• If you have long feet, you may want to knit additional rows before moving on to the toe. The toe requires 2.5 inches, so you want to make sure that you stop when you are about 2.5 inches from the tip of your toes.